Many of the most familiar bulbs bloom in the spring, but in order to bloom, spring-flowering bulbs need to be planted several months earlier.
The ideal time to plant is mid-September to mid-October when the ground temperature dips below 16 C (60 F) at planting depth and before the first hard frost. You can plant into November, depending on the weather.
The bigger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. Sink your tulips 8 inches (20 cm) if possible.
Don’t let their sides touch, it can cause rotting. The sooner the roots develop, the sooner the bulb can tolerate cold and frost. Plant in full sun or light shade all over the garden — in borders, on terraces, along fences, in rockeries, under shrubs and trees.
1. Dormancy
This is the period during which they are kept alive by their underground storage structure.
2. Growth
This stage occurs in response to air temperature. In spring-flowering varieties, the bulbs are especially dependant on the warming weather.
3. Flowering
This process takes place after all the nutrients have been depleted in the underground, nutrient-storing portion of the flower.
4. Storage
This final step coincides with the growth period of the foliage and continues up until the foliage has completely yellowed.
Classic bulbs are round in shape and consist of several protective layers, much like an onion.
Amaryllis, Daffodil, Dutch iris, hyacinth, Muscari and tulip are good examples.
Corms have the appearance of a bulb and are formed by a central stem that is wrapped in scales, not unlike garlic cloves. Examples include:
Gladiola and crocuses have corms.
Tubers are underground plant stems that swell to store nutrients for next season’s growth. The mature tubers are dug from the ground and cleaned of soil to store or prepare as food.
Anemone is an example.
